un-hemming a vintage piece with just a seam ripper

for when there's no machine around and the hem is wrong. hand tools only

01
iron the hem flat first so you can actually see the stitch line
02
find the top thread, the one that runs continuous along the fold
03
slide the seam ripper's point under one stitch at a time, never push through the fabric
this is where people cut too close and nick the weave, ask me how i know
04
pop every third or fourth stitch instead of prying every single one
05
pull the loose thread out slow, don't yank it
yanking bunches the fabric and you lose the fold crease
06
steam the crease out, don't just dry-iron over it
07
brush the fold line with a stiff brush to lift the memory crease
an old toothbrush works fine for this
08
let it hang overnight before you cut or re-hem anything
i skip this step half the time and regret it half the time

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