hangboard routine that won't wreck your fingers on day one
the beastmaker/repeater protocol but dialed back from what the advanced guides tell you
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1
Beastmaker 1000
get the 1000, the 2000's holds are too small to start on
2
biggest edge on the board
start here, not the small one. ego is how people get pulley injuries
3
7/3 repeaters
7 sec hang, 3 sec rest, 6 reps, then 3 min off before the next grip. eric horst's protocol, not mine
4
half crimp, not full crimp
5
full warm up on jugs first
5-10 min minimum, don't touch small edges cold
6
load at 60-80% of your max hang
7
log every session
notebook, app, whatever, you won't remember if the 20mm felt easy 3 weeks ago
8
two sessions a week, no more
fingers adapt slower than you want and tendons don't get sore the way muscles do, twice a week is the actual bottleneck
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