hangboard routine that won't wreck your fingers on day one

the beastmaker/repeater protocol but dialed back from what the advanced guides tell you

Beastmaker 1000

get the 1000, the 2000's holds are too small to start on

biggest edge on the board

start here, not the small one. ego is how people get pulley injuries

7/3 repeaters

7 sec hang, 3 sec rest, 6 reps, then 3 min off before the next grip. eric horst's protocol, not mine

half crimp, not full crimp

full warm up on jugs first

5-10 min minimum, don't touch small edges cold

load at 60-80% of your max hang

log every session

notebook, app, whatever, you won't remember if the 20mm felt easy 3 weeks ago

two sessions a week, no more

fingers adapt slower than you want and tendons don't get sore the way muscles do, twice a week is the actual bottleneck

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