hangboard routine that won't wreck your fingers on day one
the beastmaker/repeater protocol but dialed back from what the advanced guides tell you
01
Beastmaker 1000
get the 1000, the 2000's holds are too small to start on
02
biggest edge on the board
start here, not the small one. ego is how people get pulley injuries
03
7/3 repeaters
7 sec hang, 3 sec rest, 6 reps, then 3 min off before the next grip. eric horst's protocol, not mine
04
half crimp, not full crimp
05
full warm up on jugs first
5-10 min minimum, don't touch small edges cold
06
load at 60-80% of your max hang
07
log every session
notebook, app, whatever, you won't remember if the 20mm felt easy 3 weeks ago
08
two sessions a week, no more
fingers adapt slower than you want and tendons don't get sore the way muscles do, twice a week is the actual bottleneck